Halong Bay

Posted under Southeast Asia 2009

Back on the “night train”, back to Hanoi. Home of “uncle Ho” — Ho Chi Minh that is. Still too many people and far too many motorbikes, but better than Saigon. We got to our hotel by the old French quarter in the dark of night, and got to sit in the lobby until our room was available. Mega tired, as contrary to my childhood memories, sleeping on a train is not blissful, with the hypnotic “clackety-clack”and gentle sway. The gentle sway is actually an unexpected tossing about, accompanied by banging and clanking as well as the clackety-clack. The up side is that our room is great and a nap is in order. The hotel will also allow us to leave the brunt of our ever-increasing luggage here while we spend a couple of days at Halong Bay.

 

We don’t intend to do a great deal in Hanoi, as we will be returning here prior to our trip back to Bangkok and then Beijing, but it is quite pleasant to wander about absorbing some of the old French architecture and the bustling, narrow streets. Little “mom and pop” shops everywhere — many in spaces no wider than a narrow hallway, and the sidewalks cluttered with parked motorbikes and food vendors, complete with sidewalk kitchens.  Chicken on a stick and “mystery meat”, everywhere. Oh, and a note of interest for the travelling public. It is pretty safe to eat even the “mystery meat” during the first two weeks of the lunar month, as it is bad luck to eat “dog” during the first two weeks. The last two weeks are a little different; as it is only bad luck then ,for the dog, and you may well get a “fido” sandwich.

 

Hitched a ride with a tour group to Halong Bay. We are staying in Halong for a couple of days — getting into our wind down stage methinks. Halong is a beach area on a huge bay. The bay is inundated with over two thousand limestone spikes, vertically thrusting themselves from the ocean floor. Many of these islands are of a sufficient size to support small communities, but the majority is unpopulated. A number of the islands are also homes to beautiful limestone caves, complete with stalagmites and stalactites, which we intend to visit. The bay itself is normally impressive, with beautiful blue-green calm waters, but we had to take their word for this as it was quite overcast while we were there. We made our arrangements for our boat tour to the caves and fishing villages, and the returned to our hotel and a little R & R.

 

An early morning finds me waiting, alone, for our car to go to the tour boat. Bonnie professes to a visit from General Montezuma, and chooses to guard the “hopper” in our hotel to that of travelling by boat, to parts unknown. I, of course, will take countless pictures so that she is able to “share the moment” when I return. Rather that than sharing her moment I think. The caves are really quite spectacular, caverns thirty or forty feet high with walls dressed in flows of limestone in many different colors. The colors have been enhanced by use of colored lights, of course, but are spectacular nonetheless. The caves have been re-vamped for the convenience of the tourist, with paving stones and stairs throughout the caves. Quite a sight!!

 

At the jetty, we watch the tour boats play pinball with each other, as they vie for position so that they may pick up their passengers and continue on their way. This banging and thumping of the boats is obviously not a new thing as it is all taken in stride — just another day at the office. Our next stop is a floating fishing village, which is comprised of float homes surrounded by pens, in which the locals keep live fish, destined for market. The locals venture out in small boats to catch the fish, which are then transferred to the holding pens. I assume that a pick up and delivery dude then transports them to market. Anything to make a buck.

 

Our return to Hanoi was as uneventful as our leaving, other than the rain. The rain even dampened Bonnie’s enthusiasm for shopping, well a little bit at least. It will only increase her enthusiasm for shopping in China, which I am certain will take place – regardless of the weather. More to follow at that time —

 

T