The Straits of Malacca

Posted under Deja vu Asia 2010

We took a day tour from Kuala Lumpur to Malacca, or Melaka, as it were. Some say toe-mah-toe, some say toe-may-toe, or whatever. Chinese New Year festivities made accommodation at a premium, so we settled on the day trip. It worked out well, as we did get to see the area at least, and it was quite interesting. Malacca started out as a small fishing village until the Portuguese explorers noted it’s strategic location on what is now known as the Straits of Malacca.

They established a trading post here, and soon the Chinese merchants moved into the area. Subsequently the Dutch became the dominant presence, then the British, and for a brief three year period during WWII, the Japanese were in control. The Portuguese, Dutch and British left their mark both in the gene pool and the architecture, and the Japanese are still making their presence known by means of the yen. The Chinese methodically stayed in the background during this entire period, until they were the dominant ethnic group in Malacca. They also brought the Buddhist and Taoist religions to the area, and Malacca boasts the largest Chinese cemetery outside of Beijing.

The Portuguese brought the Catholic religion to the area, and built a church on the highest point of land, later to be named for St. Francis Xavier. It is said that St. Francis was interred inside the church for a period of time, later to be relocated. A statue was placed in his honor at the entrance of the church. When the Dutch took over, they left the church intact, out of respect to the Portuguese who remained in the area. Under the British rule, this was not a consideration, and the church was promptly utilized as munitions storage facility. The fact that the walls were very nearly four feet thick probably entered into the picture as well. Still the old church stands, albeit without a roof, but standing none the less.

The only other remnant from these times, is the entrance from the original fortifications. There is talk of rebuilding the walls of the original fort, but that remains to be seen.

There is a street in Malacca, known as Harmony street, as within a two block distance are both Catholic and Protestant churches, Buddhist and Taoist temples, and, of course, a mosque. Apparently these have all stayed in the area, without mishap, for many generations. Only time will tell if this can stay for many more.

Our next bus trip took us to Penang, an island off the coast of mainland Malaysia. The bus depot in KL was like most big city bus depots, way too busy, far too many people. We were not even certain that we might not be taking the “chicken bus”, as the bus was not the newest of the fleet, but it was comfortable, and there was no livestock to accompany us, as we settled in for our five plus hour ride. Now as I stated, the bus was comfortable and the roads in Malaysia are superb — very modern and in wonderful condition. No doubt a benefit for a robust oil and gas industry. Malaysia certainly doesn’t have the appearance of most of the countries in the area. I mentioned that Penang was an island off the mainland, I didn’t mention that it is connected to the mainland by a bridge. The bridge is 13.5 km long, and six lanes wide. Impressive to say the least. An additional bridge is slated to be built further south, that will be nearly three times as long — just add money.

A very good call on our jaunt to Penang, as we thoroughly enjoyed the city. Probably the area which we enjoyed most in Malaysia, although there really was no area that we did not like, but to a lesser degree. Penang has a decided British influence, pip, pip, old chap, with many buildings built in the Victorian style. For the most part, these buildings have been very well maintained, with many more protected in a heritage trust.

In order that Penang would be a “proper” place to live, the Brits also built botanical gardens and a tramway to a mountain top. For the view, don‘t you know, and as it was cooler at that altitude, a proper place for “high tea”. The tram is indeed an interesting achievement, in that the vertical lift was some 700 plus meters, and had to be built in two sections. The lower section takes you to just over the half way mark, at which point you change cars for the remaining distance. In that there are cars descending at the same time  that there are cars going up, and as there are but single tracks in both sections, a small length of double track is provided at a passing point.

It is probably a good thing that this is all controlled by cable, as I suspect that the monotony towards  the end of the day, might provide some interesting events, if it were left in the hands of humans. The tram is slated to shut down shortly, so that some major renovations might be undertaken. The track is to be twinned, and a single run from top to bottom. I fear that it may lose some of its charm when this takes place, but will increase the ability to move passengers. Regardless, the trip will be interesting, and the view is spectacular. Certainly worth the time spent.

The botanical garden is an area to view the local flora and fauna, and surprise, surprise, the resident group of monkeys. Now my family is starting to call me the “monkey-whisperer”, but I swear that I am not searching them out. Perhaps the monkeys see a family resemblance and want to check it out, or maybe they just think I’m nuts.

They are rather interesting, in a monkey sort of way, and as these ones were Rhesus monkeys, they were a bit different than those previously viewed. Come to think of it, I do somewhat resemble the older fur-faced one of the group.

In addition to bringing their architecture and engineering to Penang, the British also brought their East Indian staff, who have stayed and established themselves as an East Indian community. This makes for a wonderful variety of culinary delights, for along with the Portuguese and Chinese communities, and the native Malaysian cuisine, the palate can be treated to a new taste experience almost at will.

On the subject of a taste experience, I am a bit disappointed in my old buddy, Johnnie Black. I have run across him both of the last two years that we have come to Asia, and I just assumed that he would be in the area again. It seems that he also likes to winter in this area, but alas, he is not to be found. I did think that I had caught a glimpse of himself, at the duty free in the Kuala Lumpur airport, but I fear that I must have been mistaken. Perhaps, in this land of many mosques, he is a “persona non grata”.

As luck would have it, Bonnie managed to book us into a hotel that was within walking distance to a shopping plaza. Well, not just a shopping plaza, but the largest shopping plaza in Penang. Now this was no doubt divine intervention, as there was no where on the hotel site that made mention of this, but there it was, all the same. I believe that it must have caught Bonnie somewhat by surprise, as she could just not get into a proper shopping frame of mind. I can tell when this is the case, as she likes to keep me near, when in the mall. This, so she won’t become lost, or something. I have no problem with this, but I do feel somewhat uncomfortable, hanging about the “ladies loo”. For fear of possibly being mistaken for Tiger Woods, I try to place myself as far from the facility as I can, and still remain within sight. I was thus positioned, when I noted a Muslim gentleman fidgeting in the area of the “ladies”, and thought, perhaps, that he was somewhat confused and filled with indecision. Now I must point out that in order to assist foreign travelers, the facilities are identified by stick people, one with trousers and the other with a dress. In as much as the gentleman in question was attired in a nightshirt, dress, sort of a thing, I assumed that he was possibly confused as to which he should use. At this point his daughter joined him from the “ladies“. At least I assume that it was his daughter, she was wearing a dress — but then again, so was he. Maybe it was his son and they were both confused,— now I’m confused — and at this point I guess that it really doesn’t matter.

Our next stop is the island of Langkawi, also on the straits of Malacca, but less populated and more laid back than Penang. Time for some more R&R. We could have spent a bit more time in Penang had we known that we would enjoy it as much as we have, but “it am what it am”. The trip to Langkawi is a three hour boat ride by fast ferry. It should be interesting. We shall see.

Take care of yourselves, and enjoy each day!

T